Venting

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daveh
Posts: 665
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:40 am
Location: Kingsville Mo.

My T-14, my Super Gourds, and my Excluder Gourds are not vented. How would you be able to vent them & keep rain out?
John Miller
Posts: 4776
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 9:11 pm
Location: St. Louis, MO

Dave

Many people use the small PVC elbow vents in gourds. (I'll let others address houses).

This older article from the PMCA shows the basic concept.

http://purplemartin.org/update/Ventilation.html

I like to get the ones with threads -- if you get the hole sized right in the gourd, you can loosely screw the vent in, but you still need to add some caulk.


Another idea is simply to drill holes in your plastic gourds in such a way that water doesn't get in. I found on my Excluder gourds, which are very thick, that I could drill some upward slanting holes -- I used a 7/16 bit -- slanted up 45 degrees -- in the neck, opposite, on the same line, as the hanging holes. These vent holes then are not as large as the PVC elbow vents, but sure are easier to make and may be adequate.

John M
Last edited by John Miller on Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Linda Reynolds
Posts: 1308
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 8:33 pm
Location: Adamsville, TN

We installed PVC elbows into the back of the necks of our SGs. As John Miller explained, some caulk was needed to hold it in place. We then applied a light coat of white Fusion paint to seal and cover the caulk.
Ever-Grateful,
Linda
Guest

Another option is to buy the type elbow that has an external thread on one end,then simple drill the hole in the gourd and screw it in no caulk needed,

The area of a 1" elbow versus a 3/4" elbow may also be of concern for air flow volumn

3/4" is .4415 sq. in of open area

1" is .7850 sq. in of open area

dick
1 Ron Vasser
Posts: 581
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:26 pm
Location: Georgia/Rome

Hi daveh, to vent the T-14s on the rear of the boxes 1 1/2" from the sides and 2" down from the top of each compartment drill up with a 5/8" forstner or flutter bit at a 45 degree angle. The rain won't run in and you can plug them in cold weather from the inside of the compartments if needed. Hope this helps.
Ron
Emil Pampell-Tx
Posts: 6743
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 1:26 pm
Location: Tx, Richmond (SW of Houston)
Martin Colony History: First started in Gretna, La in 1969 with a small homemade house, have had martins ever since at 2 different homes in Texas

When I had one, I did exactly what Ron says, I drilled a lot of holes at a 45deg angle, and it never leaked.
Matt F.
Posts: 3915
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:48 am
Location: Houston, TX

Some more great T-14 venting ideas...........

Here's one thread:
http://www.purplemartin.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14664

Some great photos from forum member "Wyatt", from the above thread:
Inside shot: http://www.purplemartin.org/forum/download.php?id=7853
Outside shot: http://www.purplemartin.org/forum/download.php?id=7854

Here's another thread:
http://www.purplemartin.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8398

Some more great photos, from forum member "Sparky", from the above thread:
Image
Image
daveh
Posts: 665
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:40 am
Location: Kingsville Mo.

Thank you all for the information. The screw in elbow that Dick and John were talking sounds like a great idea. Matt, thanks for the T-14 threads. Those 2 inch louvered vents I think is the way to go if I can find them. If not, the 5/8" forstner bit at 45 degrees will do the job. Thanks again for all the info. One more question Linda, what's fusion paint?
Guest

Fusion paint in a rattle can has a chemical component that supposedly reacts with plastic giving you a better bond.

dick
Gobbler T
Posts: 1518
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:13 am
Location: Mississippi / Columbus

Dick
Did you do anything special to the plastic? I used some Fusion yesterday and it didn't bond at all! I can lightly scratch it with my fingernail and it comes right off. I'm going to have to strip it and start over :x
Tony


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Donnie Hurdt MN
Posts: 1717
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 11:14 pm
Location: North Prairie, MN

All I can say to that is there is somthing on the surface you painted that is preventing the fusion pant from sticking.
I have always had good luck with fusion paint but surface prep is important with any paint.
PMCA member and Martin fanatic....
2011 A pair of subbies fledged three young but none returned in 2012 :-(
2015 One Pair of subbies came and stayed a few nits but got chased away by Bluebirds and Tree swallows. :-(
2017 0ne pair of subbies nested and fledged 4 young
2018 Tree Swallows AGAIN chased away any martins that wanted to nest :evil:
2019 Same old story................ :-(
Linda Reynolds
Posts: 1308
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 8:33 pm
Location: Adamsville, TN

Daveh, I use Krylon brand Fusion paint. It comes in a spray can, is available in many colors, and can be purchased at Ace Hardware, Walmart and other such stores. It is designed specifically for plastic.

Gobbler, we have used Fusion on many outdoor projects and have not experienced problems regarding adhesion. When using it on our plastic gourds, we clean the area with PVC cleaner prior to painting, and find that a light coat or two of paint works well.

We have also used Fusion successfully on the poles hosting our BB housing (12) and the inverted 5 gallon buckets we use as predator guards on those poles. Last season, we even used in on a large PVC trellis that Paul built for our butterfly garden.

After 6 years, the buckets on the BB poles have faded, (and should have been repainted two years ago..........grin). However, no evidence of the paint has peeling or flaking has been observed.
Ever-Grateful,
Linda
Emil Pampell-Tx
Posts: 6743
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 1:26 pm
Location: Tx, Richmond (SW of Houston)
Martin Colony History: First started in Gretna, La in 1969 with a small homemade house, have had martins ever since at 2 different homes in Texas

Tony, a good product to clean plastic with is Acetone, it comes in many different sizes (pints, quarsts, gallons, et) at Home Depot, etc. I bought a gallon a couple years ago, and its nearly empty. The acetone is nearly the same as pvc cleaner. It evaporates quickly so you must work fast, put some on a rag and wipe the pvc quickly, then use a clean portion and do it again. The acetone loosens the grime, oil, etc, so you need to wipe it off quicily before it drys. The acetone etches (or dulls) the pvc or plastic, thus allowing the paint to bond very well, and the Krylon fusion is probably the best for bonding to plastic.
If you have pvc cleaner, do the same with it, it should also work well

I purchased some "seconds" BigBo gourds a few years ago, they were various shades, and I cleaned them as mentioned above, and I have not had to repaint them. Before I painted them, I primed them with latex exterior house primer, and then painted with exterior latex house paint. If you have these products, and if you clean the plastic properly, it should also work. But Krylon is so easy!
Guest

Here's what the Krylon website says

When working with plastic

For old plastic, use an ammonia-based cleaner and wipe down to clean surface. If the plastic is new, wipe down with paint thinner for best results. Lightly sand glossy surface if previously painted and remove dust with a tack cloth. When dry, apply Krylon® Fusion for Plastic according to the directions on the can.


Acetone as Emil says I think it would work even better as it does etch somewhat as he notes ,in fact to much of it will soften some plastics.HDPE a plastic that most gourds are made of has an oily feel and I think that the acetone will do more for combatting that than anythjing,just my opinion.

dick
Gobbler T
Posts: 1518
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:13 am
Location: Mississippi / Columbus

Donnie, Linda, Emil, & dick
Thanks for the advice, What I'm trying to paint is a plastic coffee can. I just happened to be in sherwin williams the other day & saw this product, they assured me it would stick as long as it was clean. Its new, and I washed it very well with soap & water to make sure it was clean. Wasn't thinking about etching but I guess it does have a pretty slick surface. I've got acetone & laquer thinner.

Let me give it another try!
Tony


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jimnks
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:31 pm
Location: kansas/tonganoxie

I have been modifying and constructing on my martin houses and I read your post, heck I don't have any vents in my houses, maybe I should put some in while I have them down. I think wood is cooler than plastic but I still might need some, because it gets pretty hot here in Kansas in the summer. I have over 25 BB houses out with no vents other than the recomended holes drilled in the sides and have never seemed to have a problem with them or my martin houses but if I can improve my houses I sure will any thoughts on this?
Thanks Jim
jimnks
daveh
Posts: 665
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:40 am
Location: Kingsville Mo.

Jim Ive been building BB houses for years and they all have vents (3/4"drilled holes) or slots in walls and above doors for air circulation. BBs nest 3 times a year around here so air circulation is good especially in the middle of the summer. The babies seem tc be happy in their homes and I don't think any have jumped before their time because of heat. So, I feel my T-14 and gourds need to be vented also. The Trio houses are vented pretty good and I would be a little nervous putting more holes in their lightweight structures. I'm using 2" louvered vents I bought from Lowes on the T-14 and 3/4" pvc elbows on the gourds. On pg 2 of the forum, Vents (Cont) explains what I'm doing. I'm still wondering if I should vent the T-14 attics.

Dave
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